Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Day 8 Harris

Uig Harbour, Isle of Skye
The ferry departs Uig on Skye to transport travelers on a 90 minute sea crossing  to the Outer Hebridean town of Tarbert on the Isle of Harris. 
Coach A took the ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway, Isle of Lewis, a two and half hour ride.
Of the four ferry rides on the tour, neither group had anything but smooth sailing.
Terry Bloomfield, a current Harris Tweed weaver, generously lets us visit his Tarbert studio each year.
Terry Bloomfield showing a complicated tweed he wove
Rapier action on a Bonas Griffeth loom
Weavers must complete a 12 week weaving course to prove their skill and competency before going to work for the industry. There are currently 100 weavers on the island that supply the industry weaving on Bonas Griffeth double wide looms. The looms are powered with a pedals like a bicycle. Instead of a shuttle, a rapier travelers through the weaving shed carrying weft yarn back and forth.
Observing the loom in action

Thirty years ago, 700 tweed weavers worked on the islands. Today the mills in Shawbost and Carloway provide the warped beams to the  tweed weavers.  1 beam of warp for four, 75 meter tweeds is delivered to his weaving studio. Normally, it  takes 2 weeks to weave off the beam. The fabric is taken back to the mill for finishing and marketing. Much of the tweed is sold to Germany. The exciting news from Terry is that this fall he will teach 6 new students to weave on the doublewidth looms. The only stipulation is that the students must live on Harris. The looms will be supplied for them during the coursework. The students will lease the looms when starting their own tweed weaving studios. Read more about the history of the industry at http://www.harristweed.org/
Palm trees line the road to Harris Tweed Shop, Tarbert
The late Katie Campbell and family.
The Harris Tweed shop sits right next to the ferry terminal in Tarbert. The whole island was saddened at the death of Katie Campbell in January 2011. Here is a photo of Katie,  her daughter Catherine, and granddaughter I took at her shop in 2009. Katie had woven tweed for over 40 years. She and her sister Marion grew up at the foot of their father who was also a tweed weaver. Grannie had 11 girls who all spun. My mom died young. There were 4 of us girls and Dad bought a Hattersly Loom. We went to sleep to the click clack of the loom. It was lovely. It was safe.--Katie Campbell
 
Harris Tweed Shop with the orb sign

Catherine keeps her Hattersly loom humming along turning out colorful contemporary and traditionl tweed cloth. Besides yardage for sale, the Campbell's tweed is   sewn into caps, handbags, jackets, teddy bears, seals, etc.  http://www.harristweedandknitwear.co.uk/family.html
Jim D sporting his new tweed hat
Who let these two on the bus? Wallie W. and Julian H. checking out the merchandise
Jenell P scores with a bag of tweed scraps and Jeanne C. smiles in her new tweed cap
Harris is known for its sandy beaches. Luskentyre and Sielebost show dramatic beauty in all kinds of weather. Today, in sunshine of course.  The white sand sets off the incredible blue colors of the water making it seem like a movie setting for “Paradise Lost.”


Lida C. and Judy L. in classic tourist pose #1, "photo mode"
This wet seaweed on the beach looked just like dyed fleece
Driver/Guide Eddie in the #2 most important job duty, taking group pictures
Coach A Travelers
 
Gillian Scott-Forrest
At an unlikey gallery, the upstairs of the An Clachan grocery store in Leverburgh on the southern tip of Harris, is displayed a wonderful labour of love. Gillian Scott-Forrest instigated the Millenium Project. A series of hangings was designed, one for each part of the island.

The tweed fabric and the wool yarn used for the pictorial embroidery was hand dyed using plant dyes. Of the 1600 people living on Harris, 90 were involved in the project. The images on each hanging depict both history and current events from each area of the island. Each of the 8 panels are 5 fett by 2 1/2 feet.


Until the project, called the Harris Tapestry, finds a permanent home, you can get your gas, buy your groceries, have breakfast, and learn of the rich history of the people and the island all in one stop. http://www.harristapestry.co.uk/
St. Clements in Rodel
  
St. Clements Church is a wonderful structure, built in 1520 by Alexander MacLeod. In the 19th century it was being used as a cow barn until Lady Dunmore restored it in 1873. There are 3 crypts in the sanctuary featuring intricate stone carvings. The graveyard surrounding the church holds many MacLeod graves as well as other local families from through the centuries. The accoustics are stunning and I always have to sing in this haunting church. http://www.leverburgh.co.uk/stclements.htm

Alexander MacLeod's tomb features spectacular carvings


Cross fragment in the nave
The three things you can't miss while in the Outer Hebrides are eating the freshest seafood, the prevalence of the Gaelic language still spoken here, and the tweed industry.
Doreen standing next to a sign in Gaelic and English. All signs on Harris and Lewis are written in both languages
Scallops, crabs, mussels, prawns....all fresh off the boat in Harris
Many times corporate decisions hurt smaller enterprises. However, Harris applauds Nike for adding "Harris Tweed Trainers" to their shoe line a few years back.
The Harris tweed trainers worn by one of our B&B hosts
I'll complete our day on Harris with a photo essay on the 2 mile round trip walk I took from Rodel to Borrisdale. This stunning land and seascapes make it easy to see why the Outer Hebrides islands are becoming a very popular vacation destination for many on the mainland of Scotland.














Day 7 Skye

This is the day our group split and continued the journey in opposite directions around Scotland. Coach A continued north to Orkney while Coach B headed west to the Isle of Skye. Thus today's blog entry includes photos from Coach B's Day 7 and Coach A's Day 13 on Skye.

What's with all this sunshine?
Michael, our driver on Coach B commented as we drove down the A890 that he had never experienced a day quite so sunny and balmy as our drive through the Highlands to Skye on this stretch of road. It is much more common to see numerous gushing waterfalls on this route more often covered in clouds, rain, or snow.

Strome Viewpoint overlooks the sea loch, Lochcarron. For forty years Strome was the railway terminus for trains connecting to the Hebrides bound ships. It was not until the 1960's that a motor road was built around the Loch.
Lochcarron
In the 1970's and 80's, this loch was the site of a huge industry that built oil rigs for the North Sea oil drilling sites. Today oil rigs are built in Asia and no visible remnants of that industry remai here. It was such a fine vista, I snapped shots of the blissful travelers.

Daughter & father pair, Patrice H. and Julian H.
Dan K.

Jeanne C., Wallie W., and Maria L.
April 2011 was the warmest ever recorded in Scotland, since modern day record keeping. Here is a forest fire burning in the vicinity of the Five Sisters of Kintail
One used to have to sail to the Isle of Skye as did Bonnie Prince Charlie in fleeing from the government forces after the Battle of Culloden. In 1995, the bridge was built forever changing the island.
Skye Bridge with the Cuillin Mountains in the background
The weather was brilliant for both coaches on the days we each visited. Our driver/guides took us to some of their favorite spots on the island.
Cuillin Mountain View from Sligachan

Glen Brittle

Gordon M staying protected from the fierce Scottish sunshine.

Michael called for a driver break in Glen Brittle. We all complied and appeared quite like the sheep grazing in the field below us, content. 

We stayed in B&B's in Portree and had views like this from our windows.

Kilt Rock

Macarthur Clan burial site

Flora MacDonald's grave. She aided Bonnie Prince Charlie in his escape from mainland Scotland after the Jacobite's defeat at the Battle of Culloden.

Fairy Glen



Monday, May 16, 2011

Day 6 Workshop Day in Oyne

Sunday 1 May, 2011. We had another day of sunshine for our workshop at the rural setting of the studio at Touched By Scotland/Gadies in Oyne. Robin and Jan have studio space for classes, in addition to their large gallery full of metal, jewelry, paper, fiber, painting, glass, ceramics, and wood, and artwork all made by UK artists. http://www.touchedbyscotland.com/

I always provide a workshop on the tour. Since many of the travelers are makers, it allows us to take a break from traveling and enjoy a day of creativity. Elaine Lindsey is a local artist who has worked for the past 27 years reviving the Scottish forms of straw work. Today we soaked in the history and learned some technique of Scottish straw work from Elaine. http://www.somethingcorny.co.uk/
Elaine has been working with wheat, oat and rye straw for nearly 27 years. Her work is very varied, from making a traditional Skeklar costume for an exhibition in Los Angeles to producing straw accessories for London fashion Week and photo shoots for magazines. She also makes props for theatre and television. Elaine loves researching and reproducing traditional designs but also enjoys designing her own contemporary pieces. Elaine gets great pleasure out of passing on her skills through workshops, demonstrations and talks.She teaches all over Britain and has taught abroad. In 2010 Elaine was invited to teach for a week at the John Campbell Folk School in North Carolina. Elaine is a member of the Guild of Straw Craftsmen and the National Association of Wheat Weavers. http://www.nawwstrawart.org/

Jere L. finishing up her projects
A gifted teacher, Elaine is so enthusiastic and knowledgeable about many kinds of straw work from around the world. She is always learning new things herself and this shows in the vast of array of traditional and contemporary work she produces. Elaine uses wheat for most of her work, although traditionally, straw was used in Scotland for the traditional "corn dollie" work. Elaine's wheat, the "Maris Widgeon variety, is grown in the midlands in England.

Corn Dollie doesn't necessary mean a doll made out of straw. A corn dollie just means that it is straw work that still has the "ears" or heads of the grain incorporated in the piece. "Dollie" comes from the word "idol". There are many different stories about the significance of the last sheaf of corn (corn is the word used for grain in the UK) harvested from the field. In Scotland the last sheaf, the "cliach", hung in the farm kitchen. The seeds of this were the first planted the next year. It was good luck to have a dollie in the house.

You don't need fancy tools to work with straw, just your hands, scissors, straw and cotton string.

Nearly everywhere you travel in Scotland, stone ruins are found. Near our lodgings in Insch, stands Dunnideer Fort. The remnants of the fortifications at the site date back to the Iron Age. There are 99 stone sites and circles in this area of Aberdeenshire. A small group of us went to gaze at the stars during the dark of the moon tonight at the recumbant stone circle of Easter Aquhaorthies. Our tour astronomer Dan K, pointed out all the visible constellations.
Dunnideer Hill Fort from a distance
View over Aberdeenshire from atop Dunnideer
At the fort
Trish on the left, Gaye on the right
Sunday night G&T treated us once again to a house concert of folks songs of Scotland. Trish Norman and Gaye Anthony travel around the UK and Europe performing at festivals. Their voices blend in sweet harmonies while trading off the lead. Trish’s high, clear, lilting soprano is grounded by Gaye’s rich, round alto voice. They accompany themselves with guitars. They sing songs about the sea, fishing, and teach us the chorus to their famous haggis song... "how many legs have a haggis, and how high do they fly...!" Their stories and banter interspersed between songs kept us all smiling and laughing and singing along. They started the concert in their party hats which they wore at their Royal Wedding garden party a 2 days previous! Gaye and Trish have made 3 recordings. You can hear their joyful sounds at http://www.shanty.co.uk/G&T/

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Day 5 Dundee and Aberdeenshire

Saturday 30 April, 2011. To travel from Edinburgh to Dundee, you cross the new Forth road bridge from where there is a fine view the old Forth Railroad bridge. A cantilever bridge, is considered to be the 8th wonder of the world. Completed in 1890, it was the world's first major steel bridge and still carries many trains a day. The bridge has only been closed down 5 days in its history for repairs. http://www.forthbridges.org.uk/railbridgemain.htm

Here is the Dundee lies on the River Tay and is known for 'jute, jam, and journalism.' It was once known as “Jutopolis.” Over 50,000 workers worked in the jute mills. Verdant Works Jute Mill, built in 1833 , was the 16th largest of 61 mills. The last of the jute mills closed in 1997. Verdant Works is now a museum depicting the days when jute was king in this http://www.verdantworks.com

Jute fiber was brought by ship from India. Large bales were brought to the factories where it was processed, spun into yarn and woven into cloth. Boys only worked in the mills until they were 18, when they were made redundant.


Women comprised the majority of the workers in the mills and had a lot of power.

We had an excellent guide, Earl Scott, who led us through the interpretive displays. He dresses as Jute Baron from the late 19th century.
The visit starts with a film showing the history of the industry. Another excellent film shows current jute industry in India where most of the world’s burlap is woven today. The museum has working machinery that shows the process from the receiving of the raw fiber to the to the finished cloth. Much of the jute was woven into fabric for sacks and canvas and also used for rope. Here is a simplified synopsis in images.

There are no jute mills left in Dundee. Some of them have been torn down, others turned into housing and others refitted for other industry. But no industry since has matched the success of the jute mills in the 19th and early 20th century. A number of songs tell the stories of working in a jute mill. My group, Straw into Gold has recorded 2 of them, Sheena Wellington’s “The Weavers o Dundee” and Mary Brooksbank’s “The Jute Mill.” You can listen to this second song at http://www.singingweaver.com, by clicking on the revolving musical symbol on the home page.

A beautiful three-masted, 30’ x 128” ship, the Discovery, sits in the Dundee Harbor. Built in 1901 as a research vessel, it was designed for the artic with a 27” thick hull comprised of 3 layers of pine, oak and fir. You can see the saltboxes in the hull that were filled with salt and pushed into the hull, like drawers, to absorb any excess moisture between the hulls. The ship was powered by a double expansion engine, made in Dundee, which was powered by two boilers. These boilers were fed coal. For the first Antarctic voyage, 400 tons of coal was stored in the hold and 40 tons on the deck.



Captain Robert Falcon Scott led an expedition of 47 men to the Antarctic for scientific research. Scott desperately also wanted to be the first to reach the South Pole. The The crew included 37 sailors, 5 officers and 5 scientists. The scientific study focused on the five areas of geology, meteorology, magnetism, zoology and biology. With space for only 18 sleeping hammocks in the crew quarters, the men worked and slept in 12 hour shifts. The main meal was as noon. Each crew member was given 1 glass of rum with lunch. In New Zealand the ship took on 40 sheep that were slaughtered and hung frozen on deck. The diet was supplemented by penguin, sea birds and seals. 100 pounds of dry mustard was in the ship’s pantry to disguise the bad taste of the penguin and other birds. Every person was given a dose of lime juice each day to prevent scurvy.

Officers had a finer sleeping and galley area, but it was also the coldest place on the ship. The officers would wake up with their blankets frozen to their beds. When the ship reached the Antarctic, they became frozen in sea ice and remained there for 2 winters. The scientists conducting research made significant discoveries in the areas of plant and animal life, climate, and geology. Hartly T. Forrar studied the geology of the Antarctic and published the first description of Antarctic geology in 1903. Today, that book has been modified, but not replaced.

During the Southern Sledging Journey of 1902-1903, Scott, Shackleton and Wilson traveled for 95 days attempting to reach the pole via foot. The 19 dogs brought on the journey to pull the supply sled all died. The mission was unsuccessful. In Feb 1903, the pack ice broke up freeing the Discovery to sail back to Scotland. Scott did reach the South Pole on his second journey but was not the first. Norwegian explorer Roald Amundson beat Scott by 33 days. Scott died while sailing back home. http://www.rrsdiscovery.com

We dined tonight at Gadies, the restaurant attached to Touched by Scotland gallery in Oyne. Robin and Jan offer food that looks beautiful and tastes delicious. They utilize many of the agricultural products from the fertile land of Aberdeenshire. http://www.touchedbyscotland.com/gadies.php